Rock Climbing in North Wales by Mark Reeves.
The sheer scope and breadth of rock climbing in North Wales, makes it one of the world’s leading area when it comes to climbing. The vast array of cliffs both by the sea and in the mountains means there are climbs for all seasons. So whether a seasoned climber want’s to challenge themselves on the sea cliffs of Gogarth on Anglesey or a novice climber making their first traditional climb in the Ogwen Valley in Snowdonia. North Wales Rock Climbing has it all.
Within a 50 mile radius North Wales has around 9 different rock type, and even some of those rock type have formed slightly differently to give a seemingly endless variation in climbing styles. It is this that helps make North Wales a world class rock climbing area. Where people literally flock to from all over the world to follow in the footstep of the pioneers.
This is because North Wales was one of the first places ever developed as a climbing area. Which means as well as amazing rock the routes here are steeped in the history and culture of the sport. The first leader place protection was used on the first ascent of the East Buttress of Clogwyn D’ur Arddu. The traditional climbing ethics we used today of not bolt the natural crags means that they have kept their original character.
It is not all epic trad climbing though, the area also has some of the UK best sport climbing. Both in the unique setting of the industrial wasteland of the Dinorwic Slate Quarry and on the Limestone cliff around Llandudno, which lies in the rain shadow of Snowdonia National Park. Again this adds yet another layer to the fantastic rock climbing North Wales has to offer.
If it ended there then Wales, would still be a world class venue but it does not. For amongst the cliffs and valleys are hundred of free standing boulders. Whilst small in stature these Boulder form the final piece of North Wales Rock Climbing. With many world class problems scattered from the tip of the Lleyn Peninsular at Porth Ysgo, through to the iconic Cromlech Boulder of the Llanberis Pass and through to the novice playground of the RAC boulder just outside Capel Curig.
North Wales simply has something for everyone when it comes to Rock Climbing. Spread out on all sides and within the mountains of Snowdonia National Park which Means that the local micro-climate can enable you to rock climb all year round. So whilst it might be a typical damp welsh day in Snowdonia, just a few miles away in Tremadog or Holyhead the sun might well be out. So what are you waiting for, pack your car and head to north wales.
Mark has authored a number of climbing books, one of which is North Wales Climbs Rockfax guide
Mark Reeves is a local author and rock climbing coach, he is passionate about all things North Wales and simply loves the adventure climbing here. He runs a host of courses from Snowdonia Mountain Guide and has developed a site for North Wales Rock Climbing. He lives in Llanberis, Snowdonia but is found mostly travelling the world climbing.
To connect with mark check out his links below.
Next: Climbing north Wales, locations and styles -click here >>>>